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Friday, April 27, 2007

Amigas

Because love ends, Shirley!

São inúmeras as razões que a vida nos dá para nos fecharmos, mas poucos os motivos para baixar a guarda. Estar sendo pago para “aprender uma cidade” certamente faz parte do segundo grupo.
Esse comecinho mezzo filosófico é só para dizer que, tivesse eu tomado a Nanjin road como paradigma, jamais responderia a um hello novamente aqui na China, receoso de indesejáveis muambas e obscuras “feet massages”. Mas saindo ali de Copacabana, há outros hellos que podem, e devem, ser levados em conta pelo viajante de espírito aberto.
Eu estava perdido anteontem, com o mapa na mão e uma vaga idéia de onde estava na cabeça, quando duas meninas se oferece-ram para me ajudar. Bem, elas não eram de Xangai e logo percebi que ajudar elas não iam, mas queriam dar um dedinho de prosa com o estrangeiro. (Ainda não me decidi se os chineses são mineiros ou baianos, mas ô povim bão de hospitalidade, meu rei). Helen e Shirley (seus nomes americanos, claro) disseram que estudavam inglês na faculdade e nunca tinham a chance de praticar. Estudam em Suzhou, aqui perto (onde era plantado boa parte do chá que a China exporta-va no início do século XX), mas nasceram em pequenas cidades do interior. (Imaginei umas meninas de Lins e Cafelândia que estudas-sem na Unicamp, estivessem passeando por São Paulo e cruzassem um australiano). Usavam umas roupas moderninhas e Shirley levava uma sombrinha roxa, por causa do calor. Quando falei que era do Brasil, elas perguntaram “e onde é que fica?”. No fim das contas elas encontraram o Museu de Xangai para mim e nos despedimos trocan-do e-mails e telefones. (Tive que soletrar A-n-t-o-n-i-o). Hoje saí com elas.
Nos encontramos no mesmo lugar onde dissemos tchau, mas hoje embaixo de uma chuva insistente, grossa e gelada, com um ven-to traiçoeiro que de uma hora para outra fazia os pingos mudarem de direção e os guarda-chuvas virarem do avesso, mostrando despudo-radamente suas anáguas de alumínio.
Eu não sabia se estendia a mão, se as beijava ou só dava um oi, assim, de longe. Preferi a última opção, apenas um Ni Hau sem contato físico e possibilidade de constrangimentos. Fomos para um restaurante ali perto. As duas escolheram tudo, depois de quase vinte minutos de calorosos debates em chinês – de onde saíam vez ou outra para breves consultas como “do you like mushrooms?”, “do you prefer spicy food?”, “what about tofu?” e logo depois voltarem à inter-minável discussão.
Elas pediram e eu disse que queria uma Coca-light. Fizeram uma cara de assombro e trocaram umas cinco ou seis frases com a garçonete, que também parecia surpresa com meu estranho desejo. Shirley me perguntou se queria “ice” nela. Disse que sim, achando que a questão estava resolvida.
O lugar era meio estranhão. Um pouco mais pé sujo do que meu passado Oswald-Equipe-Bahia acharia bacaninha, mas a comi-da, mais uma vez, era fantástica. Primeiro veio uma espécie de sopa com macarrão e legumes, apimentada. Depois um tofu com camarão e molho de tomate (eu me rendo, eu me rendo, tofu é bom...), berinje-la com um molho grosso à base de shoyu e uma carne moída sensa-cional em cima, um macarrão quase transparente e leve, com frango e cebolinha e, como se não bastasse isso tudo, uns bolinhos no va-por com carne e legumes (tipo guiozas). Tudo isso custou 51 yuans, que dá pouco mais de quatro reais para cada um.
Minha coca chegou, não era light e tinha uma bola de sorvete de creme dentro. Céus, não tomava vaca-preta desde o pré-primário e fui reencontrá-la na China? (Se fosse místico, acharia que era um aviso de uma pessoa querida que está um pouco brava comigo e pa-ra quem expliquei, semanas atrás, a existência dessa estranha bebe-ragem).
A conversa começou truncada, com umas perguntas que pare-ciam ter sido tiradas de um livro de inglês, tipo “qual a capital do seu país?”, “como é o tempo lá?”, mas bastaram uns minutos para elas começarem com “quantas namoradas você já teve?” e se contorce-rem em risadinhas. Falei um pouco sobre a minha vida e elas ficaram pasmas. “Você morou com uma mulher sem se casar?! Como vocês são abertos! E se tivessem um filho?!”. Me explicaram que na China não era assim. E não pareciam contrariadas. As duas queriam arru-mar um namorado para casar e ficar junto até o fim da vida. Pergun-taram se eu tinha irmãos e aí é que acharam que eu era mesmo um devasso, de uma linhagem de devassos: “uma irmã de pai e mãe, um irmão de pai e uma irmã nem de pai nem de mãe, mas que o marido da minha mãe teve no outro casamento e veio morar com a gente”.
Lá fora a chuva continuava e, como discutíamos o que fazer, eu disse que não precisávamos ficar andando pela rua, mas podíamos ir para um lugar fechado. “Um lugar fechado?!”, repetiu Helen, seus dois olhinhos agora maiores do que os de um personagens de man-gá. Fiquei tão constrangido que comecei imediatamente a enumerar lugares fechados acima de quaisquer suspeitas: exposição, museu, mercado, shopping, livraria... (Parei antes de falar farmácia ou aca-demia de ginástica).
Saímos andando na chuva e no vento frio em direção a uma casa de chá que, segundo elas, fazia o ritual como convém. A gente levando aquelas lambadas geladas de chuva na nuca, pisando em poças, Shirley vira e grita para mim: “você acredita em amor verda-deiro?!”. Pô, olha a mina... “Sim, acredito, eu amei profundamente as mulheres que namorei”. “Mas se é verdadeiro, é pra sempre. Por que seus namoros terminaram?!” Minha vontade era dizer, olha, Shirley, eu também queria saber, já falei muito disso na análise, talvez eu seja um idiota, talvez toda a minha geração seja idiota e mimada e inca-paz de abrir mão do que é preciso para uma vida a dois, talvez a vida é que seja idiota, mas achei que a situação não era exatamente para grandes especulações, estávamos atravessando a rua, chovia, um ônibus desgovernado vinha em nossa direção, um guarda apitava -- caralho, tô em Xangai falando sobre amor verdadeiro com duas chi-nesas desconhecidas que se chamam Helen e Shriley! --, de modo que, chegando à outra calçada, agarrei firme a mão de Paulo Mendes Campos e falei: beacuse love ends, Shirley. “What?!”, ela perguntou, em meio ao barulho vento, dos ônibus, do guarda. Tive que falar qua-se gritando: Because love ends, Shirley! As duas pararam, olharam sérias para mim. Helen tomou a frente: “not if it’s true”.
Tá, talvez vocês tenham razão. Eu não sei. Não sei mesmo. Eu sei que amei de verdade, depois acabou. A vida acaba, o amor aca-ba, só essa chuva é que parece não ter fim. E lá fomos nós, tomar chá, como se nada tivesse acontecido.


Mais de Shirley e Helen

Água?!

Ainda no restaurante, abandonando a vaca preta (o sorvete ti-nha derretido e estava mais para burro quando foge), disse a elas que queria uma água. “Água?”, perguntou Helen. Ah, péra lá! Até a coca-cola eu entendo o espanto, o país era comunista e tal, mas á-gua?! Qual o problema? “Água gelada?!”, repetiu Helen, como se qui-sesse ter certeza de que havia ouvido certo. É, uma garrafa d’água. As duas fizeram um não convicto com a cabeça. “Água gelada faz mal para o estômago, você não sabia?!”. Mas, Shirley, o mundo todo bebe água gelada!. Eu já tomei até aqui na China. Pode deixar, não vai ser a água que me causará algum problema nessa vida. Pede, por favor? Elas se olharam e, a contragosto, pediram alguma coisa ao garçom. Em um minuto veio uma xícara de água fervendo. “Espe-ra esfriar um pouco e depois bebe. Água gelada, nunca”, disse Helen, passando por cima do fato de ter ignorado meu pedido e com uma cara de quem acaba de tirar um amigo do fundo do poço das drogas.

Barba

À caminho da casa de chá: “Por que você deixa isso aí?”, per-guntou Helen, apontando meu rosto. Isso o que, a barba? “Não sei como chama, isso que você deixa”. Porque eu gosto. Você acha feio? Elas riem. “Não, estrangeiro pode. Mas em chinês é feio.”

Macaco

Os chás são incríveis e uma mulher explica cada um, seus efei-tos e a tradição correspondente. Helen me traduz. Tomamos numas xícaras bem pequenas, de uns 50 ml. Em meia hora me preveni con-tra o câncer, ganhei força, paz, combati dor de dente, ressaca, dor de estômago, ansiedade e até miopia. (A mulher me fez tirar os óculos e colocar o olho dentro da xícara vazia, com o vapor do chá).
Tomamos sete tipos, cada um com sua xícara, seus movimen-tos, sua história. Deliciosos, grande programa. Com calor, tiro meu casaco. As duas olham meu braço e riem dos meus pêlos. “Você pa-rece um macaco!”, diz Shirley. “De que montanha você vem?”, conti-nua Helen, e riem, riem dos meus pêlos. Aproveitando que as barrei-ras do comedimento e discrição foram definitivamente derrubadas – pelo menos no que tange à queratina --, Helen pergunta: “seu cabelo é mesmo dessa cor?”. Claro, Helen, porque você acha que eu pinta-ria? “É muito escuro, quase como o nosso. Estrangeiro é sempre loi-ro”. Juro, eu não pensava nem de longe que essa viagem ia ser tão doida.

74 Comments:

Blogger Mariana Rocha said...

querido tony love,
você faz falta por aqui. ontem fomos nos despedir do chico, que está indo pra buenos aires por uma semana. não sei o que vai ser do fabrício sem vocês. conto com o apoio do conrado.se tiver plantão, não sei não. só hoje consegui ver seu blog, meu pescoço está ruim de novo e não consegui mais parar de ler. achei o encontro e a conversa com shirley e helen especialmente inspiradoras e já se parece com o começo de um romance. seus textos estão geniais, uma delícia ficar lendo. pensamos muito em você aí e o fabrício está muito feliz por você. deixo beijos, carinhosos e encomendo uma receita, pra você fazer pra gente, quando chegar.

May 3, 2007 at 8:28 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

kkkkkkkkk
muito bom!!!
amei a shirley e a helen, definitivamente muito divertidas!!!
mas concordo mais com você que com elas, love ends always, mesmo que em algum casos só acabe se um dos dois morra ou acabe em sei ou dois meses, sempre acaba!

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